Jam Delish

Turn onto Islington’s Tolpuddle Street and you’ll first see two things: a supermarket and a bus stop. Unless you need either, that’s your cue to carry on walking. But don’t. Instead stop at the street’s third occupant, Jam Delish, an exhibition of Caribbean plant-based cooking so astounding that you’ll wonder why no one ever told you vegan food can taste like this.

Starters were two kinds of taco, ‘saltfish’ and jerk ‘pork’ (none of the menu’s meat substitutes are named, a welcome move that forces you concentrate on what they’re trying to be rather than what they are). The ‘pork’s’ smooth smokiness was cut across by generous pickled red onions and produced the first of what proved to be several moments of wonder at how all this food could be plant-based.

Such was the level of execution for the main course, amazement turned to bewilderment bordering on denial. Curry ‘goat’ was the evening’s standout dish, a piece of plant-based brilliance that served as a lesson in how to build flavour. Chunks of seitan were submerged in a sauce so creamy, richly-flavoured and gently hot that you could drink a mug of it, and paired with moreish rice and peas.

Also present were jerk ‘chicken’ skewers that tasted as good as, if not better, than their animal counterparts, charred just enough to deliver contrasting crispness and shot through with Scotch bonnet heat and sweetness. These kinds of indulgent, mouth-filling flavours often work best with sides that compliment by contrasting, as was the case with the vibrant, thinly-sliced mango salad and sharp Caribbean slaw.

Banana cake pierced by a curving half of its constituent fruit provided one final vegan revelation, not least because its accompanying chantilly cream had a fatty, dairy taste despite not containing any.

Creating memorable food, updating a cuisine’s long-established staples and being completely plant-based are hard enough in their own right. Jam Delish does all three at once, an achievement so impressive that you’ll be left wondering how.

Situated in Angel, Islington, Jam Delish is a vegan Caribbean restaurant and cocktail bar. The restaurant was set up by siblings Jordan and Chyna in 2020, with the goal of sharing the delicious and authentic Caribbean food enjoyed by their grandparents with the London food scene. Jam Delish is just a 5 minute walk from Angel tube station, the entrance to the restaurant is tucked away on Tolpuddle Street, in the middle of the building.

The interiors are bright and inviting, with chairs and banquettes upholstered in shades of blue, and a vibrant living wall at one end of the restaurant. As well as tables for diners, there are also some seats at the bar for anyone nipping in to enjoy a few of the restaurants house cocktails.

Jordan and Chyna strongly feel there is a gap in the market for authentic Caribbean cuisine, fused with plant-based, vegan ingredients. The menu is entirely vegan, featuring dishes such as brown stew with oyster mushrooms and fried dumplings, served with smoked butternut squash puree, and crispy grilled aubergine served with Caribbean pepper sauce, fresh coconut yoghurt, pomegranate and crispy onions.

Desserts sound equally as tempting, with dishes such as chili chocolate brownie served with coconut sauce, and caramelized banana cake with a Lotus biscuit crumb, served with cream.

Sharers and larger plates are available at the weekend, and may include the Jam Delish fried "chicken" burger (vegan), and stacks of fluffy vegan pancakes served with whipped cream, toasted coconut and mango puree.

The cocktail offering at Jam Delish is unique and innovative too, with house mixes including a passion fruit rum punch, and a sorrel margarita. The blue lagoon also sounds a must, made with blue curacao, coconut syrup and pineapple juice.